Confusion: Word that Best Describes the Study of Medieval Quilting Practices

Just as one cannot put a black and white definition on modern quilting, one cannot put a black and white definition on medieval quilting practices.  Just as there are now, the term "quilting" can encompass finished items from clothing to household goods, and techniques ranging from applique, embroidery, piecework and a slew of wholecloth techniques from trapunto, to backstitch, to running stitch.  In period as in the modern world there are finished products that are better defined as "quilted" - a triple layer sandwich of cloth and batting to "flimsies" and coverlets that omit the batting layer and may or may not have quilting stitches to hold those layers together.  Just as a modern quilter I'm interested in creating various products with a variety of these techniques I am interested in their historical forefathers.

I started this research, when a well meaning SCAdian, promptly told me at my first event that they didn't have "quilting" in period.  I've come to decide that what they meant was "quilting in the manner of modern American patchwork", but even still since then many medieval era pieces have come to light that do in fact show that those crazy folks in the medieval period, did piecework in both their clothing and their household decorations.

One has to start somewhere but instead of starting in a linear fashion, this researcher has tackled the history by studying the different techniques instead.  I've divided my research into the following categories:  wholecloth, piecework, and applique.  Inside of these categories I've further divided into clothing vs. household items.  Yes, there are extant items that will fit in multiple of these categories, and I will likely cross-reference them as I go along. As does this oldest piece of "quilting", a linen carpet from a Siberian tomb  that dates back to before the 1st Century CE, where one can see embroidery, applique and quilting.

With all of that said, I will begin posting research and links here on the blog about one of my favorite passions, medieval quilting!

Thinking about SCA sewing again….

I’m thinking about SCA sewing again.  I haven’t been playing for a long while now, but I’m thinking about playing some this spring.  So while we were moving, I dug through my old SCA projects to see what needed working on and whether or not I was still remotely interested in completing it now.  So the old UFO list looks like this:

Green and Rust Whole Cloth Quilt

Rose colored Elizabethan

Bishops Patchwork pillow

Non-period Device Quilt….yeah I know it is isn’t exactly period, but I started it a long long time ago…and it is close enough to done, to be finished.

 

So which ones am I going to work on?  and in what order?

Well, the Device quilt is going to get finished this spring, even if it is only to the flimsy stage. 

The Bishop’s Pillow is going to be the main project.  I have it drafted out already, and I have the scraps, so I just need to get going on it.  When it is finished, it can be a throw pillow on our bed.

Pre-Pennsic Sewing

Is all about “service” and money.  I have several pieces that I need to get finished for my family for Pennsic, and several pieces that I need to get finished for others.

4- Italian Camicia  I use the pattern on Realm of Venus . It is a great pattern.  I use a slightly different cutting model than this pattern does, but it is a great pattern.   Two are for me and are out of this really nifty linen weave cotton I bought for $2.00 a yard.  It is all I have of it, and I really really like how it wears.  Two are for a young lady in my household and are of a plain cotton.   Not a bad price, but would have loved to have picked up a better deal on it than I did. 

1 Fun Tunic – My boy, wants another “Fun” Tunic.  He wears them at the end of the day, after he’s showered and I have confined him to camp.  This one has dragon’s and blue flames. 

Baby Size Tunics for my baby.  He is remarkably cute in his tunics, but like most babies, he get’s filthy quick.  I want to make sure I’m not running to the laundry every two days at Pennsic.  I wish I could get a better picture of him modeling, but he’s all of 14 months, and much much too wiggly.  I do sell these gorgeous little tunics for $20-$30.  If you are interested.

2  10 Gore Dresses – One is a remake. Take the thing apart and cut it down a few sizes, the other is flat out a new one for the same lady.  I’ve made other garb for here over the last year and she paid mine and my boys way to Pennsic, so bless her, I can certainly finish this up for her.

2 Italian Ren – Basic generic what I’d call an underdress, but the young lady in question, won’t wear the outer gown that should probably go with them – ever.  I don’t do it in the summer when I am camping either, so I can’t say much. 

1 Houpelande – Again, another item that is being done for barter. 

1 Coptic Tunic – This I’m looking forward to.  I’ve never made one, so I am hoping that it goes along fairly well.  More barter goods.

1 Sax Tunic – Basic t-tunic. Even more barter….

3 pair of Trouser’s.  And even more bartered items…..

Today’s job is to rework the sewing room and clean out so that the fun can begin  :)

Quilting Classes at St. Pyr's

The most annoying thing at SCA classes at outdoor events, is the LACK OF ELECTRICITY sometimes. Yes I know, goes against the whole SCA idea right? Yeah, but I want to show pictures and the pictures show up best on the computer. Okay. End of Whine.

Whole Cloth quilting class:
Partially lecture, partially activity. First ten will get a kit to make a 18" by 22" wall hanging. Kit will include 2 pieces of fabric, batting, a needle, a bobbin of thread, and instructions.

Piecing
Partially lecture, partially activity. First ten will get a kit to make a 12" by 12" pillow, it will include fabric, a needle, and instructions. Instructions in class will be for hand piecing.

Finishing up the Phoenix Dress

I still have a few things to do on the dress.  Since the event was cancelled it has allowed me a few days of breath.  I need to tack down the last of the belt on the bodice but that is about all.

So that leads me to wondering what the next project will be.  Immediately it will be Baronial Tabards, for the Barony of Black Diamond, following that I will likely split my time on a quilt my sister commissioned me to quilt and my next Elizabethan (for me), which is a middle class black wool.

Phoenix Dress

The dress is coming along nicely.   The bodice is complete, with the exception that I am tacking the pearl girdle to the bodice since there are not tabs or skirting to keep it in place.

I am not quite nearly as done on the skirts as I would like to be.  The underdress is ready to be hemmed and the overskirts are almost ready to be cartridge pleated.  I have to have the overskirt pleated by tonight so that I can do the final fitting tonight and hem tomorrow. 

Stages of Dressmaking...in my head

When I go to make a dress I think of my progress occurring in stages.

Stage 1
Designing the dress.
This can take days or just a few hours, it really depends on the materials and the client. If the client has a really clear cut picture of what they want (or if I know I want to re-create the look of a certain portrait) then it is easy. If I just want to try to make the yardage that I have of a certain fabric work in a dress, then it is not so easy.

Stage 2
Assembling and Buying the Materials
I really like to make my materials list to see what I have on hand, and what I need to go to the store and pick up. There is nothing that I hate more than to "think" I have hooks and eyes, and then find out when I am ready to put them on, that I have to run to town to get them. So, through trial and error I have learned, make the list, down to the last hook and eye, and spend one afternoon in town picking up what I need.

Stage 3
Cutting out the Muslin and Sewing it up
Always, always make a muslin first. The ONLY times that I might skip this step is if the measurements have NOT changed on the dress recipient at all (even then, if it has been over a couple of months, I still make a new one anyway) or if I am making a Viking or some such garment that is NOT fitted.

Stage 4
Muslin Fitting
Is always the longest fitting. I take the muslin, put it on the model or me, and then mark it up with a sharpie.

Stage 5
Cutting out the Fabric
This is where I spend however long it takes to cut out all of the parts. If it is an Elizabethan, then that means the whole thing, underpinnings, if needed, the gown, the accessories, the whole thing.

Stage 6
Beading and Embellishment
I like to do my beading and embellishing at the beginning. For one, I don't like for it to show on my lining and two well, see number one.

Stage 7
Assembling the Pieces
This is the sewing it together phase. Typically I do this on the sewing machine, although I have been known to hand sew entire garments. I usually leave off certain "fitting" seams until after the next stage.

Stage 8
Another Fitting
Although I may have other fittings in between this is the big one. The client really gets to see how their garment is coming together, and I get to see if I have the bodice edge where I want it to be before I sew it down and put in any lacing holes.

Stage 9
The last of the Sewing
Finish those "fitting seams", complete any handwork not already done and check for strings I might have missed the first time. I really like to do my handwork as I go. That is what TV is for.

Stage 10
The final Fit
One last time I try everything on the client or me, to see if everything checks out right. Does it all fit like it is supposed to? Did I forget any handwork? Did I clip all of the strings? The garments come back off, and stay with me to be pressed, hung and bagged or stored appropriately.

Rush jobs throw all of that into a muddle as I am often at varying stages on different pieces, just as it is with the Phoenix Dress. Although really I am stuck at stages 6 and 7, which often times are the two that get muddled together during rush jobs.